CAMETV Heavy Camera Larger Frame 8000 Gimbal Stabilizer / Photo Credit: Cheesy Cam
STABILIZATION GIMBALS… (In the
Entertainment industry. Stabilization
Gimbals)
Stabilization gimbals
Stabilization gimbals are a big thing now (My guess is
that they be the most commoditized item at the upcoming photo kina show). I
mean you can get a decent gimbal for as low as $200 for an action cam/phone or
$700 for a mirrorless camera. Those used to cost thousands just 3 or four years
ago.
But even the best gimbal still needs to be used correctly
to get the best out of it.
Some of the tips revolve around making sure that you get
the smooth movement you wanted to. Walking with bent knees is quite known, but
have you ever thought of using a bicycle to get smooth movement? It quite
clever.
Other tips concern squeezing every second from your
gimbal, like making the camera is light as possible. And several clever tips
about keeping the camera leveled while changing batteries and how to put the
gimbal away easily.
Pans, tilts, jibs, and sliders are all solid, established
tools to help you add motion to your documentary. But a steadicam, or more
recently, a brushless gimbal, can emulate all of those traditional movements
with ease. More importantly, they can do things that no other tool can do: they
can take your documentary production to a whole new level.
But the major problem with most camera stabilizers is that
they’re too much hassle for the practical realities of documentary production.
If you’ve read up on the series “How To Use a Gimbal,” you’ll know just how
much finesse it takes to get a gimbal up and running. For commercial and
narrative work, without a doubt a gimbal or traditional steadicam is a great
tool. But when you’re working alone or with a small crew on a fast-paced,
unpredictable documentary shoot, the decision to use a gimbal becomes a more
delicate balance of risks and rewards.
First, if you’re interested in a steadicam or Glidecam,
it’s relatively simple to figure out your balance in advance of your shoot. And
if you attach a quick release plate, at the moment you want to use your
steadicam you can take your camera off your tripod and place it on your steadicam
rig, and you’re good to go. The issue is that a traditional steadicam is
difficult to master, it’s hard on your wrist (unless you add a more
sophisticated arm or chest harness), and your movement and camera control is
fairly limited.
With a gimbal, you can use both your hands to hold the
rig, and you can even move your camera’s control grip to one of the gimbal
handles, so you can control exposure, focus, and even zoom while maintaining
steady shots. Without getting into more advanced types of gimbal shooting, you
can mimic a slider, jib, pan, or tilt shot with just the gimbal alone. If
you’ve ever used a jib on a documentary shoot, the ability to shoot a jib-like
shot with just your hands holding a gimbal and camera is a phenomenal tool in
your tool belt.
But a gimbal can do so much more for your documentary, by
enabling you to create sequences of shots while your subject is in motion.
Traditionally your sequences are set in static locations, or you play the cat
and mouse game of running in front of your subject, let them pass, and then
repeat. With a gimbal, you can shoot your subject as they’re walking, driving,
biking—or any other form of transportation—while you follow along. And even
when your subject is not moving you can create camera motion that gives your
video a polished look that has been incredibly expensive to achieve, up until
now.
Gimbals are a Lot of Work
Most gimbals are not set up for solo operators looking to
get quick shots. The biggest hurdle is that gimbals require a stand of some
sort, to hang the gimbal while you balance the camera. If you change lenses,
zoom in or out, adjust your accessories, or simply bump the gimbal out of
balance, you’ll need to bring your gimbal stand along everywhere you go.
The balancing act is also a bit cumbersome. The first
gimbal you buy maybe frustrating balancing on all sorts of stands before we
finally got it working. Nowadays, the balancing is easier, but you still need
to dive into the dark arts of software adjustment to fine tune your camera’s
balance.
And then you need to figure out an external monitoring
solution, if you can’t see your camera’s LCD screen while you’re shooting. And
to minimize your camera’s weight, your microphone has to go somewhere off the
camera. If your camera and lens is over five pounds, you’ll have to move up to
more heavy-duty gimbals that are costly and even more cumbersome.
And finally, once you have your gimbal all rigged up and
ready to go, there’s the problem of physically holding the gimbal for long
periods of time. Most gimbals are designed in a way you have to hold the gimbal
and camera far in front of you, so it doesn’t touch anything that could push it
off balance. And the camera is placed at the bottom of the gimbal, so if you
want to shoot at face level you’ll need to hold the gimbal higher above your
head. Within minutes you’ll be worn out from holding the rig so much that your
shots will feature major shake, even with the gimbal motors running.
To ease the weight of a heavy gimbal and camera, there are
solutions out there that can transfer the weight to your back, hips, or arms,
but not only are they costly, you’ll also start to look like a cyborg wearing a
suit of armor. It just won’t fly on a documentary shoot.
A gimbal that allows you to shoot in “inverted mode,”
where the camera sits on top of the gimbal rather than being suspended from the
bottom of it, does more than just allow you to balance on a tabletop. It also
allows you to shoot at face level without having to raise the gimbal above your
head, which means you can shoot for long periods of time without getting
fatigued.
There are even gimbals that have flat undersides that you
can attach a quick release to, so you can place the gimbal on a tripod. Apart
from balancing, you can even use this setup to shoot precision pans and tilts
with a gimbal on top of a tripod fluid head.
And then there are gimbals that are incredibly lightweight
and portable, but are intended for small cameras or even smartphones. In a
documentary shoot, you could have a small B-cam ready to go on a gimbal at all
times, but you have to be aware of any issues that come with matching multiple
cameras and their picture profiles.
Finally, there are gimbals that have small cameras and
lenses permanently attached to them, often in super lightweight one-handed
designs. While your options are limited in terms of camera and lens choice, the
flexibility and ease with these setups are perfect for documentary shoots. This
enables you to put aside your main camera for the moments where your subject is
on the move, pick up your separate gimbal/camera, and shoot a sequence without
disrupting the rest of your traditional setup.
Sources,
References & Credits: Google, Wikipedia, Wikihow, Pinterest, IMDB, Linked
In, Indie Wire, Film Making Stuff, Hiive, Film Daily, New York Film Academy, The
Balance, The Numbers, Film Maker, TV Guide Magazine, Media Match, Quora, Creative
Skill Set, Investopedia, Variety, No Film School, Daily Variety, The Film
Agency, Best Sample Resume, How Stuff Works, Career Trend, Producer's Code of
Credits, Production Hub, Producers Guild of America, Film Connection, Variety, Steadicam,
Tiffen, Tuts Plus,
Slavik Boyechko, DIY Photography, Udi Tirosh,
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CAMETV Heavy
Camera Larger Frame 8000 Gimbal Stabilizer / Photo Credit: Cheesy Cam
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